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theselfbuilder_woodflooring1Naturally beautiful, wood floors are also durable and hard-wearing. Choosing the right one is crucial – this is an investment you'll be living with for a long time.

There are four key considerations when buying wood flooring: your budget, the room in which you'll be laying the floor, the type of subfloor, and whether you also want to install underfloor heating. However, your budget will be the decisive factor. Solid wood flooring (usually about 20mm thick) is more expensive than engineered boards (4-6mm of wood on top of approximately 14mm of plywood). Solid wood flooring costs between £50 to £300 or more per sqm. Good-quality engineered boards cost about £50 per sqm, but prices start at about £20 per sqm. The quality and appearance of engineered boards has improved markedly over the past few years and it's sometimes difficult to tell the difference between solid wood and engineered products. Most engineered boards can be sanded and refinished. Good-quality versions will last 20 years or more, but solid wood will last a lifetime. Laminate (which isn't wood at all but a photograph of wood lacquered on to MDF) is cheapest of all (from less than £10 per sqm) but can't be sanded, won't feel like wood underfoot and is much less durable.

Types and grades of wood

Your personal taste, as well as budget, will infl uence the type of wood you buy. Oak is by far the most popular, accounting for 70 per cent of fl oors laid in Britain. Widely available, it can also be economical, with prices starting at £25 per sqm. More exotic woods are expensive (astheselfbuilder_woodflooring2 much as three times the price of oak). Finishes – lacquers, waxes and other protective coats – and special requests, such as oversized boards, will increment the cost. Wood grades measure how many imperfections – knots or piths – it has. There are three key grades: clean (or prime), natural and rustic. Th ere is no difference in quality between them (they can come from the same tree) but rustic grades show more imperfections while clean grades are more expensive because they are rarer. In Britain, natural grade is the most popular, but for a contemporary aesthetic you may prefer the clean grade.

Where to lay wood

In theory, wood floors can be laid in any room in the house, but in the past general advice has been to avoid bathrooms and utility rooms because some wood flooring does not respond well to being wet. If you're set on having wood floors in the bathroom, there are top-end manufacturers that guarantee their floors for damp environments.

theselfbuilder_woodflooring3Base Layer

You can lay wood on to most subfloors. According to Junckers' technical services manager Steve Maltby, wood floors are nailed to joists, glued directly to the substrate, or float on a thin underlay. Joists or battens are a good option if your subfloor is uneven or if you are building from scratch; glue requires an even floor and is not recommended in apartments as the noise will transmit to neighbours below; while floating floors, on the other hand, can help reduce noise. Planks and boards can be fixed using any method but parquet can only be glued to the substrate.

Fashion forward

Oak may be perennially popular but very dark woods (wenge and walnut) and very light woods (such as light ash) are currently in fashion. Oversized and super-wide boards are popular at the moment, too: think extra-large herringbone patterns or boards at least 300mm wide (Ebony & Co even off er a 560mm wide oak board). Bear in mind that you'll live with your choice for many years, so it's worth choosing a style that will not feel dated quickly. Colour is one way to experiment. The new Reflection collection by Junckers (see image nine) has bright metallic finishes that are right on trend, but if you get bored you can simply sand the floors back and change the colour.theselfbuilder_woodflooring4

Warm Underfoot

For many years, heating was a no-no under wood floors. That's now changing, with many brands offering specific products. But there are caveats: 'Solid wood floors have to be cut and dried in a certain way before they can be used with underfloor heating,' says Ebony & Co UK sales and marketing manager Martin Rowell. Steve Williams, partner at UK Wood Floors, agrees: 'In general, engineered boards are a safer bet with underfloor heating,' he says. See ukwoodfloors.co.uk for more detailed information. Always check with the manufacturer before you buy, and try to get a written guarantee that the product is designed to be used with underfloor heating.

Finishing touch

Oiled finishes are becoming more popular than lacquer finishes – in part because oiled finishes off er a softer, more natural appearance and also because they are easier to maintain. Simply oil the heavy traffic areas once a year to bring the floor back to life. Lacquer finishes need to be sanded and reapplied if they are damaged. Note that although you can sand a lacquer floor and then oil it, the reverse doesn't apply – once wood is oiled, lacquers can't be applied.

Words: Trish Lorenz

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Looking back

Who? Architect Jonathan Hendry, wife Katie and their two sons.

Where? Near Grimsby in Lincolnshire.

What? A radical reinvention of two former local authority homes into one dwelling.

How long? The first house was bought in 2001 and the second in 2003. Both were completed by Christmas 2004.

Budget? The first house cost £50,000 and £25,000 to refurbish. The second cost £89,000 and £140,000 in building costs. The Hendrys estimate the whole cost at £400,000.

High point? ‘When the two houses finally came together.’

Low point? ‘Not having any windows in the first house in the middle of November.’

Tip ‘Get a good architect – you won’t get the most out of a project without one.’

Looking back

Who? Peter and Christine Benjamin.

When? Planning was submitted in August 2004, permission obtained in November 2004, building completed in May 2006.

High point?
‘When the frame went up and we suddenly realised what an enormous amount
of glass there would be; there was an immediate sense of the amazing proportions of the whole house.'

Low point?
‘There was no low point; we enjoyed it all,' say Peter and Christine, although there was a moment of concern when they realised one Friday that they had forgotten to order scaffolding and the timber frame was due to be erected the next Monday. Luckily a local firm saved the day.

Planning

  • Always check with your local planning authority before undertaking works on your house. If your home is not listed and you don’t live in a conservation area, you are allowed a great deal of freedom when it comes to making superficial alterations to the appearance of the facade.

  • When you come to increase the volume of a house, there is also some freedom. Every house has permitted development rights, which allow a certain increase in volume – this will alter depending on the type of house, the distance from the boundary and the height of the extension.

  • If the house has previously been extended this could also have ‘used up’ your quota, so check with the local authority. So long as you stay within these permitted parameters, you shouldn’t need planning permission. If you extend beyond this, you will need planning, so don’t make any changes until you know where you stand.

  • Being in a conservation area can restrict what you’ll be able to do, though it doesn’t make a remodelling impossible. Find out whether there is an Article 4 notice in your area – this can take away certain elements of your permitted developments rights. It’s a good idea to find out from a conservation officer what they believe gives your conservation area its character, as these elements are the ones they are less likely to allow to be changed.

  • In a listed building it can be harder to make many changes, other than to repair where there is decay. The likelihood of changing the exterior dramatically is nil.

  • Remodelling can be a plus when it comes to planning. In some areas, you’ll get permission to remodel where you would never be allowed to build a new house.

The floating staircase

The staircase miraculously hangs in mid-air, without touching the floor – a real feat of both engineering and craftsmanship. ‘I love hanging things,’ Peter confesses. ‘When there’s a gap, it’s like magic!’ To persuade his structural engineer that it could work, Peter lined up six workmen to simulate the weight that the ceiling would have to carry. It worked.

A carpenter made the staircase using traditional methods, incorporating the unusually-patterned zebrano wood. It was so beautiful that Cathi and Peter have left it exposed at the back, so that the craftsmanship is on show.

Looking back…

High point? ‘The excitement of the lorries coming up the hill carrying these huge bits of the house.’
Low point? ‘Being called and told that our neighbour’s wall had collapsed, knowing there was nothing we could do but wait to hear if the insurers would pay out.’
Favourite bit of the house? ‘The whole space – it still feels like living in a luxury hotel.’
What would you do differently? ‘Look for a site with 
a slightly shallower gradient.’
Would you do it again? ‘Definitely – it’s the ultimate creative project. Jonny will come round to the idea!’
Budget? ‘The plot was £325,000, and we budgeted 
the same for the groundworks, but went over.’

Looking back…

Who? Polly Bagnall and Philip Dobree and their children.
Where? Dulwich, south-east London.
What? Three subdivided 18th-century cottages, restored and extended.
How long? Nine months.
High point? ‘When the glass went in, everything came together and suddenly the design made sense.’
Low point? ‘The negotiation to buy the properties was tortuous: we had to make several sealed bids.’
Tip ‘Always use a single contractor – you’ll have more comeback if anything goes wrong.’
Budget? £330,000

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