No matter what age your home, it's important to make it more efficient as it will be standing for many years to come.

Insulation

Houses with a loft probably have loft insulation by now, but its performance is reduced if you store boxes straight on top. Cover over the joists with boards, and take the opportunity to add a bit more insulation while you're up there, at least to the depth of the joists (150mm or so).

Recent figures suggest over half the houses with cavity walls don't have insulation (check yours by using a drill - if it goes ‘into nothing' after 100mm that space can be filled). You may be eligible for a Warm Front grant to contribute to the cost eagagroup.com/grants). If your house has solid walls, you could consider adding externally applied insulating render. This costs £70-£80 per sqm from Sto (01505 324 262; sto.co.uk).

Stripped and sanded timber floorboards (my personal bugbear) are, more often than not, the only defence between you and the cold ventilated floor void beneath the house. Carpets and underlay were always meant for insulation so, at ground floor level, those gaps between the boards are equivalent to leaving the windows open. Consider lifting the boards and putting insulation down between the joists. And forget the myth that future global warming is an excuse for not needing insulation! Choose insulation with a low ‘k' value (a measure of heat conductivity) and good environmental credentials by opting for natural materials like wool or cellulose. More importantly, don't leave any gaps. If money is tight in a new design, put the insulation first where it will be difficult to add more to it later, say under the floor or in a wall cavity. Draughts through poorly fitting windows or gaps under skirting boards also lose heat from your home (see p28 for how to plug draughts). Buy windows and doors with seals that close tightly. My advice is to avoid letterbox slots in front doors and have an external box instead. You can get your home pressure-tested for a fee of about £500, which will identify any major but invisible gaps. Try Bre (01923 664 000; bre.co.uk) or Air Leakage Testing (01799 540 220; airleakagetesting.co.uk).

Windows

Windows are the most important part of a building, primarily because they let daylight and the sun's heat in. As always you will need to liaise with local building control or planning offices to change them, but more efficient versions will be well worthwhile. Choose windows with timber frames, double glazing and draft seals. Look at the U-value (a measure of its insulating properties) of the whole window, not just the glass. The lower the U-value the better the window. A U-value of 2 is acceptable, but 1.5 should be your target. Any lower will require triple glazing, and the extra cost versus the small additional benefit is probably not worthwhile. FENSA (0870 780 2028; fensa.co.uk) is a self-assessment scheme you can use to certify that your windows are in compliance with new Part L of the building regulations.

Redecorating

That ‘new house' smell consists of a cocktail of gases and chemicals, some of which are Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs). They are emitted from paints and solvent based glues used in some types of carpet, and contribute to indoor air pollution. Shop for paints with minimal- or low-VOC product labelling and avoid gloss paints that can be up to 50 per cent solvent-based. Linseed oil-based paints are solvent-free alternatives to gloss, often from sustainably managed resources. Try Holkham Linseed Paints (01328 711 348; holkham.co.uk/linseedpaints)

Words: Adam Ritchie